Note To Future Self

As previously hinted, Anna and I recently took our turn at the Milford Track, one of NZed’s Great Walks. Unlike in the States, where the “great walks” tend to be epic in length and preparation (Appalachian Trail, Pacific Crest Trail), NZed’s Great Walks are universally short (under a week) and typically more catered than the typical backcountry experience. The Milford is the pinnacle of this accommodation: four days and three nights of easy walking.

Unlike just about everything else in this country, the Milford Track actually fills up. Reservations for the Great Walks open on July 1st and the Milford was largely full by the end of July. The walk itself is 33.5 miles long, and trampers (limited to 40) stay in a pre-ordained sequence of huts. You aren’t allowed to go any slower, nor any faster, nor backwards, nor spend two nights at a hut. It should be mentioned Milford is pretty much the only Great Walk with this many rules.

Four days is actually a long time to think about blog posts (really. what else did you think I’d be doing? enjoying the view?), so I’ve got grand plans for a series of posts. Maybe. If we ever get around to it.

Before things get esoteric, though, we’ll start with a basic travelogue and photo post:

First, here’s the overview topo map (courtesy of DOC):

The walk actually starts with a bus ride from the tourist mecca of Te Anau to Te Anau Downs, then a boat ride to the start of the track on the shores of Lake Te Anau.

And winds its way up the Clinton River valley to the Clinton Hut.

The huts themselves are palatial by kiwi standards (though I will say the hut system makes backcountry travel radically different from tent-camping in the states). The first night is a good time to get to know the 39 other trampers you’ll be sharing the trail with for the next few days. Better hope none of them are snorers….

The second day continues up the Clinton River, passing through forest, clearing, rockfalls and avalanche paths, while the valley walls get closer and closer together.

Finally ending at the Mintaro hut:

The third day is the “challenging” day as you light out early from the hut to ascend McKinnon Pass. The ascent is something like 600 m, followed by a short walk across the saddle, and a 900 m descent down the backside.

(the pass is that notch in the ridgeline to the right)

We had the slight misfortune of heavy fog on the ascent, so we didn’t see much of the Clinton Valley behind us.

But once descending, the sun came out and we were able to enjoy the Arthur River valley before us.

Finally reaching the Dumpling Hut.

The fourth and final day is spend on a rather lengthy tromp down the Arthur river to Sandfly Point. The day’s walk seems specifically designed to enrage the Type-A personalities, as the tramp take about six hours, and each tramper must meet their pre-appointed boat (typically at 2 or 3PM) to get off the track. This leads to perpetual watch-checking and shuffling of feet at the slightest suggestion of rest breaks or flagging of the pace.

Despite that, everyone reaches the end of the trail and meets their boat.

Which takes you across the final bit of wet stuff to the town of Milford.